J – The charm of Paris is not for sale!
I absolutely love Paris. The first time I went there, I felt strangely at home. I now return every year for at least two weeks. I’m not made of money, and you don’t have to be either. You can certainly live large in Paris, if you want. But, a three-day stay at George V or Plaza Athenee is way over my 12-day budget for the apartment, food, wine and entertainment … including a private, French-techniques cooking class with Chef Constance.
I’m living my large!! 
I do splurge on a chauffeur from CDG. Totally worth it! The agency, Feels Like Home In Paris, makes it quite convenient. Jacob is personable and speaks French or English … your choice. The service doesn’t stop there. Stephanie Thiroux, the agency’s proprieteur, has taken care of everything including use of a French iPhone. Essential and free. I always stay up the whole day I arrive. By the next morning, my personal clock is pretty much reset to Paris time.
The suite-sized, one bedroom apartment (sleeps four) is in Le Montmartre (the 18th) and is an amazing launch pad for adventures throughout Paris. Le Montmartre feels like an Impressionist painting, but with no horses, newer cars and hundreds of motos (scooters) all over.
I walk or take the Metro everywhere. With the amount of eating I do here, I absolutely need to exercise. Daily, it’s about two hours of treadmill and stairmaster … in small chunks! Bring good walking shoes.
Except for the cooking class day, I make up my agenda after meditating. With un petit cafe, good cheeze, baguette and orange juice in hand, I consult my friend the Internet and plan a route. I have some food-writing goals in mind … mostly, it’s which interesting neighborhood or restaurant district to explore before lunch.
Ah, lunch! Sometimes, I end up, unplanned, at a little cafe or bistro like La Petit Place near Musee Picasso in Le Marais. It looked good and non-touristy. I was hungry. Voila!
Chef Constance gave me a list of current, non-starred and super good restaurants by chef friends of hers. Pirouette, where her husband is chef, is one of the small, trendy spots making waves in the Parisian food scene. Another is O Divin, which is SO divine! Reasonable, too. A two-course plus cheese plate lunch, including excellent wine curated for each course, was 53EU! Exceptional food and service.
I’ll give you the whole restaurant list with addresses and phone numbers later this week in the No Stars for Me post.. There are probably dozens more.
The real charm of Paris is that it is Paris. Very old, winding streets with a new surprise at each corner. Incredible food … just avoid places in popular areas with lots of English on the menu and obviously higher prices. Of course, there are a few “starred” restaurants worth going to, if you feel flush.
Charm is most obvious in the people, buildings, parks, museums and the general Frenchness of things.
Cooking is a good example. You buy everyday … in the morning! Appliances work a bit differently, but they do work. Apartments are smaller and are often accompanied by charming views … but, not always of the Eiffel Tower.
Don’t get this charm thing wrong. My stay in Paris was not in the least bit roughing it. I’m long past backpacking and hostels. The apartment was amazing. I ate really well everyday in restaurants I would return to in a heartbeat. I even cooked a couple of great dinners.
I had fun and saw cool stuff. I met some really wonderful Parisians. I’ll be returning!