Update and Redux: J – This dish makes our Best of 2016 list because it is elegant and supremely delicious. It’s also a bit technique-driven … which I am a sucker for. It doesn’t show off. It just delivers. Oh, if I only had a time machine to go back and visit Troisgros in the 60s when this dish was introduced. Never fear … according to many, the dish lives on, even if it is finally off the menu at La Maison Troisgros.
J – I have seen this dish on video so many times …
being made by one of the brothers Troisgro. If only I could go to the actual restaurant. I have known about Troisgros and the origins of Nouvelle Cuisine for years. It is clearly part of our style. However, just because I’m in France this month doesn’t mean I can jump all over the country.
Rouin is a bit of a journey from Paris. So, we just had to make it ourselves.
This dish was an amazing escape from the over-cooked, over-sauced “haute cuisine” popular back in the day.
Simple, elegant, delicious. There was no turning back. The 1960s were like that in so many ways.
When I told friends we were making this dish, they wondered about how complex it would be. Seems like French dishes have earned a bad rap for being too complicated.
It’s not a deserved reputation … especially for this dish.
Granted, the knife and cooking techniques are at a somewhat higher level for lots of dishes. But, this one escapes most of that except, maybe, for the part about mincing, rinsing and drying the shallots.
| Our Favorite French Food Week 2016: Salmon and Sorrel Troisgros |
- 2 tsp unsalted butter
- 2 medium white mushrooms, trimmed with stems left on, cleaned and finely chopped
- 1 large shallot, finely minced, rinsed and dried
- 1 cup dry white wine
- Salt and white pepper to taste
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1.5 oz sorrel, stemmed, washed, dried and chiffonade, divided (leave about 1 Tbsp for garnishing)
- A few whole sorrel leaves for garnish
- 2 center cut salmon fillets about 4 oz each, each cut into about ¼ to 3/8 inch thick, 5 inch long and 4 inch wide
- Melt the butter in a small sauce pan over medium heat.
- Add mushrooms, shallots, white wine and season with salt and pepper. Bring the wine to a boil and cook until wine is completely evaporated. Keep a close eye on the pan making sure to not over reduce.
- Turn down the heat to low and add the cream. Cook the cream very slowly, stirring occasionally for about 15 minutes, until the cream is just thick enough to barely coat a metal spoon.
- Strain the cream into another small sauce pan. (you can make this sauce to this point up to 2 hours in adxvance, and keep it covered at room temperature.
- When ready to sear the fish, add the chiffonade sorrel, leaving aside about a tablespoon for garnishing. Let steep for about 5 minutes on the lowest setting on your stove. Taste and adjust for seasoning.
- Strain the cream sauce and place back into a clean pan. Turn off the heat and let sit for a few minutes while the salmon is being cooked.
- Place the salmon on a non-stick pan on medium heat. Sear the bottom side of the fish for about 2 minutes. flip over and cook for 10 seconds.
- Quickly lift the salmon out of the pan and place onto a platter.
- To serve, place a sorrel leaf on the bottom edge of a serving plate. Nappe ¼ of the sauce for each serving into the center of the plate. Place the salmon on top and garnish with some of the remaining chiffonade sorrel.
- Serve immediately.
- Enjoy!
Much of the difference is in mis en place, great ingredients, careful cooking, portion size and simple, elegant plating.
It was delicious. Totally worth doing.