J – Everyone eats dinner late in Paris.
At least you think so, when you first arrive. But, after 48 hours, you realize that it’s completely relative and adapt. On the first night in Paris, I went to eat as late as I could stay awake … 7:30pm. There weren’t a lot of diners at that time. When I finished an hour later, guests were just beginning to arrive.
Restaurants generally serve the most dinners starting around 8:30pm and run well past midnight.
On the other hand, I ended up having “lunch” at 3:00 in the afternoon with my new friends Cherie and Dennis. This was another random thing, and a good one in the end.
Dennis is staying in Paris for six months and Cherie was visiting him. Dennis want us to go to a One-Michelin-Star restaurant he liked. He made reservations and we were to meet him. Naturally, we were running late … so late that a snooty French waiter at the place told us we were five minutes too late for our reservation. The kitchen was closed.
This was a really good turn of events! After a bit of wandering, we happened on a Basque restaurant, Restaurant Gladines, on St. Germaine de Pres [of all places]. I asked if they were open. Bien sur! was the reply from a charming hostess.
We proceeded to order three fabulous entres, served with some wine and bottled water. Water is always part of a meal … to balance the wine, I guess. Duck Confit with Potatoes, a rich Cassolet and a delicious seafood stew. We all enjoyed and shared.
Everyone there was has nice as could be. Very good feeling. I went back the next day for a “normal” lunch. Good again. That evening, I returned just to see who the customers were.
It was packed. Seemed really local to me. Nice!